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Six Lessons from the Sea

Man with surfboard

Peter Dawson

After a couple of decades of surfing and traveling, and writing about surfing and traveling, these are six lessons that I use every day.

1. The struggle is the joy. Videos and films make surfers look like we’re always cruising around, carefree, on crystalline waves, no work involved. But extremely little of each surf session is spent actually standing up on your surfboard on a wave—maybe 1 percent. Mos …

Jaimal Yogis is the author of All Our Waves Are Water: Stumbling Toward Enlightenment and the Perfect Ride, just published by Harper Collins.

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